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When I think of the Japanese, kimonos, carefully decorated fans, and unique seasonal events (cherry blossom) spring to mind. Having spent four years in the land of Nippon, it only seems right to check what Far Eastern fare is available right up my street; a job made easy by the Great Eastern Dining restaurant landing in Spitalfields.
The black décor and oriental characters in striking red paint grab my attention whilst crossing the road toward the restaurant. Thinking of sumo wear and chic looking kimonos, I wonder if there’ll be bowed greetings when I open the door.
Although they don’t scream "Irasshaimase!" at the top of their voices when we enter, the slickly dressed waiting staff make us feel like special guests as we’re seated and are keen to offer menus, food and beverages, reminding me somewhat of the faultless service that I received in Japan. Our designated waiter, Jonas, suggests a choice of drinks before returning with a rather dashing Mr Miyagi tequila-based cocktail and an equally refreshing Rickshaw raspberry vodka favourite.
Turning to the menu, I notice there are some of my familiar favourites. I remember my first bowl of Edamame in one of the 100-yen restaurants in Osaka, which was served dry with a sprinkle of salt. The Great Eastern, however, have taken the traditional Edamame and added soy sauce for a fuller flavour. Clever stuff. Tofu was never one of my hot choices as it was king of bland in the rising sun but the scrumptious chilli coating and the accompanying tasty chilli salt squid leave the taste buds wanting more.
Japan is all about the presentation of its dishes and there are no short cuts here. The presentation is exquisite and with four Japanese chefs working their chequered pants off in the kitchen, it’s like the Far East has come to the East End.
Although there are no laughing buddhas and lucky cats hanging around, the crisp, dark mahogany oak and delicately mirrored blocks make it somewhat bigger in places. To be fair, size is not an issue at the Eastern, although space could be utilised more wisely (diagonal table layout = attempt to squeeze in more punters). It’s a romantic setting with proper tablecloths and candles after dark so it’s a little at odds to put tables so close together. Perhaps they were embracing Japanese culture and the fact that small spaces equal Nippon restaurants.
The Far East is also renowned for fish dishes, albeit in tiny portions. Well, fish and vegetable offerings ahoy join our table as a lovely mixture of vegetarian tempura, maki rolls and sashimi cuts make up some of the pre-main course. I’m feeling stuffed already at this point but as my partner duly points out, we must take one for the team, and it is a cultural faux pas to refuse an offering in Japan after all.
Dessert, and the leaning is very, very Japanese: a firm mixture of mainly green options - green tea ice cream, green tea cake. Mochi (soft mush of rice cake) makes an appearance too but fails to tickle any taste buds. Jonas points gingerly at the sorbet menu (an important suggestion seeing as the other half doesn’t do milk) and tries to tempt me with the chocolate brownie - with a side dollop of green tea ice cream. Thinking, ‘well, it’s on the side anyway so I could just ignore it’, brownie it is. It takes ten minutes for this wondrous implosion of chocolate (oh yes, melted fudge and everything in the middle, my friend), to appear before me. Jonas waits as I tuck in to the creation with a spoonful of green stuff. Expecting a bitter taste to spoil my chocolate effect, it doesn’t arrive. The taste is absolutely phenomenal and by far, one of the best brownies I’ve had in London.
Japanese food is always so pricey in the capital and with the intricate cooking style of their chefs, it’s no wonder. The Great Eastern offers something more affordable to make that after work meal or weekend jaunt that little bit more exciting.
One for fish lovers, the Great Eastern Dining Room brings exquisite to another level, showing that customer service is alive and well in London. Whether for the drinks, the World Cup or the dishes, I’ll be back for the scrumptious cocktails, plasma screens and teriyaki this summer.
Reviewed by Naheen Madarbarkus (Updated 03/06/2010)
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The Great Eastern Dining Room Address & Contact Details
- Address: 54 Great Eastern Street,
Shoreditch, City of London, London, EC2A 3QR
- Nearest Tube / Rail: Old Street Liverpool Street
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