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Unless you're paying attention you're likely to miss the small doorway on Drury Lane that is Tamarai’s entrance. The single doorman may even be off-putting for a lost tourist, and it’s unlikely that Tamarai gets much in the way of passing trade. The inconspicuous walk down two flights of stairs to the restaurant floor has the feel of an exclusive members club.

The concept for this restaurant was taken from the flower it's named after. The Lotus is a symbol of the sun and rejuvenation, but the decor is closer to the lazy calm of the moonlight, almost decadent, with soft lighting, a comfy looking lounge area and just a scattering of couples whispering to each other.

At most eateries, arriving at 9:30pm you'd probably be catching the tale end of service but not here, a late licence and a bar capacity of 200 to add to the 110 seats mean you can eat right up until midnight, and leaving at about 10:30pm the place is just filling up with a rowdier crowd taking advantage of the ample and inventive cocktail list.

Tamarai opened in September, its design is still fresh and the gentleman who served us was helpful, informative and seemed genuinely pleased to be doing his job. The victuals on offer are described as Pan Asian and are prepared under the watchful eye of well-travelled Head Chef, Manish Mehrotre, who's training in the Southern Indian region of Chettinad, has really paid off.

The menu suggests that an 'ideal sharing portion' for a couple would be 4-5 small plates, salads or soup, followed by a large plate and desert each. Ignoring the suggestion in hindsight was a bad idea, because it’s there for a reason. Having to choose between a niggling hunger and a dog meat hot dog on the way home is not what you want.

We went for the sharks fin soup with shredded tofu, from China, and enjoyed the contrast between the flavourful stock and the soft meat. Then ignoring the fine selection of small plates and salads, and fighting off the urge to order for myself the Burmese Beef Kauk Swey – meant for two – I plump for the Baby Barramundi with Shitake, and the lady picks the Malaysian Penang Curry Sea Bass. Luckily our waiter realised our mistake and suggested a side of Asparagus.

The food comes on two platters placed in the centre, which is definitely the best way to eat and avoids the need to spoon feed each other 'a taste' or clumsily drop a forkful of Sea Bass in your lap. Needless to say it was excellent: Asparagus and fish cooked to perfection, with just about as much taste as you could ask for. Add the appallingly good five-spice chocolate mousse, a few stolen mouthfuls of the roasted sesame and white chocolate semi freddo with wild berry coulis, a couple of fine cocktails served in an ice-filled goldfish bowl, and a perfectly adequate double espresso, and you find yourself wanting to lay back on some sequined cushions, light up your opium pipe and sip some fine champagne.

Look out for that doorway. (Updated 07/02/2007)

Customer Reviews for Tamarai

“We really enjoy dining at Tamarai It is always great for a large group and even for just a small family.”
Rating: — Connor, Manchester (11 Nov 2009)

“We were the first to arrive at this restaurant and the atmosphere and service was excellent. The food was superb.”
Rating: — connor, covent garden (12 Oct 2009)

“Great dining experience! We had the prawns which was cooked to perfection and very tender.”
Rating: — [ Unknown ], manchester (10 Sep 2009)

“The service was excellent. The server was very attentive without being intrusive, knew the menu very well and even answered a question about the ingredients. We never felt rushed even though we spent a long time at our table. The food was very good also, especially the curry leaf tiger prawns!”
Rating: — Bob, Manchester (29 Aug 2009)

“I’ve been to Tamarai a couple of times for dinner and their place was packed but I some how managed to get a table for two, why do I keep going back? Well it’s very simple, the food is quite cool and the ambience is out of this world.”
Rating: — londoner, covent garden (04 Jul 2009)

View all user reviews (14).

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