• Review
• Food & Drink Menus
• Events
• Special Offers
• Hire Information
• Send 2 Friend
• Contact

Tapas: the sacred cuisine of Spanish indecision; a varied compilation of all the foodstuffs ever to grace the shores, land and air of España; baked in the hot Balearic sun, tenderised by the Ooonst Ooonst Ooonst of Earth’s biggest dance party, moistened by the Oscar-winning tears of Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem - the most sickeningly attractive and successful couple in existence (discounting Brangelina for their child snatching antics); and seasoned with the sweat of the world’s champion footballers. Yes, the laying out of food in small, sharing sized portions is very much a Spanish thing.

And yet, the English speaking world does what it usually does when it spots a good idea: admires it, then steals it. Hence the island of Ibiza has, for decades, been a commune for beat addicted Easyjetters; hence Hollywood only sees fit to award Ms Cruz and Mr Bardem golden statues when they perform in English. And hence the Premier League is flooded with Spanish wunderkids. Tapas, your time was numbered from the start.

Not wholly convinced by the English version of tapas - the ‘What a Lovely Day’ picnic - a few erudite British Asians ushered in a new idea, Indian tapas, and set up shop in Soho. Soho being a four letter word for hedonism, they similarly settled for the four-lettered Imli. These folk knew what they were doing, though, having already created the swanky Tamarind in Mayfair, the Armani to Imli’s Primark.

The immediate impression of Imli is that it’s actually two different restaurants bolted together using hardened bits of chutney. The front half, the best area to be seated, seems like a royal bathroom from a futuristic kingdom of style. The neat tiling is as regal as a corgi on a postage stamp and the large windows help awkward dinner silences by promoting the act of eye-balling passers-by. The rear section, on the other hand, is so dizzyingly 1980s, there’s a rumour going round it might reform for a comeback tour. Trade fair-sized images depicting everyday Indian scenes and vegetation hang from walls which have been daubed in an encroaching rustic orange hue. There’s also an unidentified vibrating noise that repeatedly shakes the room, causing eyes to flitter hither and thither in search of the incoming Tyrannosaurus Rex. The underground isn’t close so perhaps the Mother of all generators is giving birth next door.

Front or back, the classic Indian restaurant trait of insisting on hard surfaces (floors, ceilings, air) renders Imli a classroom of unruly eaters, chomping their way loudly through double maths. Only the colour of the walls is louder. In fact “Pardon” is the second most used phrase at Imli. Shortly after “HOW much?!” The volume of the stereo doesn’t help matters, although due to the proximity to the Soho media hub, acts like MIA and Kings of Leon can be heard flying the flag of modernity during the dinner rush. Later, when many guests have stumbled off to the theatre, fat-bellied and dozy, the remaining stragglers are treated to a gamut of Imli staff favourites. Enter, ladies Spears and Gaga.

As this is tapas, you’re obliged to sample all the dishes you simply couldn’t stomach (due to their size) on your last visit to an Indian. Treat this like a tasting menu. The menu recommends choosing three dishes each, but this should only be considered if you’re the kind of person who cant see their toes, let alone reach them. Two is plenty, especially as the Top of the Papadams are thin, moreish chutney magnets.

The plastic menus are a dead giveaway that the rotation of items comes but once a recession. Once food is ordered, the speed of service is so suspiciously quick even Andy Murray would be pleased to pump a clenched fist in celebration. This combination of staunch menu entries and rapid presentation begs questions about the freshness and provenance of some dishes.

A few of the sampled menu products are gastronomically forgettable but mostly on taste test, Imli’s fare is well. Unless you enjoy grappling with the more ‘robust’ of Eastern flavours, in which case, take note: there’s only one single chili on the menu’s spice index.

The food is colourful, vibrantly so, and has flavours that are equally energetic. Hot or cold, land or sea, mild spice or baby spice, there are dishes to provoke nearly all taste buds. From the top, the traditional Papdi Chaat wheat snacks are familiarly satisfying when doused in the sweetness of yoghurt and mint. The roast vegetable salad, although shrouded by an army of lettuce, contains serried ranks of hearty butternut squash, muscular fennel, feisty red peppers, and brawny sweet potatoes. The confusingly palatable textures of the Malabar squid, prawn and fish stew are forever indebted to the tangy ginger and saucy coconut hidden within its mixture. Monty Python springs to mind when enveloping the Punjabi kadi pakora vegetable fritters in the aromatic sauce: enjoyable, yes, if not a trifle odd. The highlight Rajastani lamb has the right amount of kickback and is tender enough to offer a little resistance when chewed. The seared masala chicken has the smoky piquant to allow it to dance beautifully with its cumin and tumeric mash. And somewhere in this dining equivalent of Bashing the Gopher, hides a pocket of effectual cottage cheese; the ‘hmmmmm, good’ kind.

If you’ve taken the above advice on board and limited the intake of mains, then your girth may well be able to attempt dessert, with the Indian caramel custard and the carrot fudge (that isn’t fudge) doing a fine job of finishing you off.

Although the menu is diverse, the wine list is pitifully brief (and served in weird goblets). The beer options aren’t much better; nor are the cocktails (mint should be mashed not chopped in a mojito!). That said, the Tequila Surprise is, as the name suggests, surprisingly delicate. Consisting mainly of fruit - guava, pear, apple - it’s suitable for anyone who isn’t fond of tequila but is thinking of getting back into to it just to impress a boss or unrequited lover.

Imli can appear a bit lively at first. It is constantly busy due to its access to theatre town and the service is hectic and occasionally curt. The delivery crew pay little attention to explaining the dishes they lay out and it can feel like on a conveyor belt of fast food consumerism. The price Vs portion is also objectionable, £70 for two people is still a sizable wad of dosh regardless of the location. And for a restaurant that promotes the concept of sharing many dishes, the tables should be larger. Overall, unremarkable yet largely gratifying. Blame the Spaniards.

Reviewed by Christian Rose-Day

Description: Launched by the team behind Tamarind Imli offers a casual, but sophisticated dining experience, with innovative cooking that is both accessible and affordable.

The traditional meets modern ethos also extends to the interiors where the design concept fuses the simple elegance of modernity with the richness of Indian tradition. Modern characteristics of bold form, colour, and scale are mixed and layered with traditional Indian elements of craft, pattern, and texture to create a unique and inspiring culinary experience. (Updated 26/08/2009)

Customer Reviews for Imli

“Imli has a great concept to change the way you eat Indian food. Gone are the days where you order a curry and fill up on rice & naan. At Imli they've taken the tapas from the Spanish and offer a range of dishes with great flavours and an array of colours. Make sure you're hungry when you go if you take up the waiters suggestion of 6 tapas dishes to share between 2. Need to work on their cocktails but the staff were friendly & attentive. Little bit pricey but then you get that in Soho. Sit in the front section so you avoid the crashing dishes and watching your curry vibrate off the table.”
Rating: — Emma, Battersea (10 Aug 2009)

“Went for a meal last Friday and had a great time. Service at Imli was relaxed, very friendly and the food was so different to any other Indian. Tapas idea is great and works really well. My new regular.”
Rating: — Brian, London (28 Nov 2006)

“Imli is great with little tasty dishes that are fun and different from any other Indian restaurant. Well worth visiting again and again.”
Rating: — Terry Morgan, London (24 Mar 2006)

Bar, Club or Restaurant Quick Search

AdvancedSearch

Group booking? Try our venue finding service on 0871-962-0202

Newsletter Sign-Up

Stay up to date on London's finest, bars, clubs and restaurants with the Fluid Style newsletter.

Your Name
Your City	Birmingham Brighton Edinburgh London Manchester
Your e-mail
	Terms & Conditions

Complete!

You are now signed up to the Fluid Style newsletter. You have been sent an email with details on how to verify your email address, as well as changing your newsletter preferences in the future.